Bernina Express Switzerland’s Scenic Train Journey

The Bernina Express (BE) Scenic Train Ride Through The Alps!

From Glaciers To Palms

The Bernina Express isn’t just a train ride — it’s Switzerland at its most breathtaking. From Chur to Tirano, this scenic journey winds past glaciers, alpine lakes, and soaring peaks, with panoramic carriages that make every turn feel cinematic.

As the BE official website beautifully says-

The UNESCO World Heritage Site and pristine Alpine landscapes within reach: a trip on the scenic Bernina Express is a travel experience in a class of its own.

“On the highest railway tracks in Europe and the steepest in the world, the Bernina Express Switzerland takes its passengers on a unique journey through fifty-five tunnels and over 196 bridges. From Switzerland’s oldest town through wildly romantic gorges, past spectacular man-made structures such as the Landwasser Viaduct, up to the eternal ice of the glaciers and back down to the palm trees in the Italian town of Tirano: no other Alpine crossing is so spectacular. The modern panoramic cars offer first-class travel comfort and make the impressive landscape appear within reach.”

Why Go. It Is Affordable Luxury

Now, I am not exactly sure when I first “discovered” the Bernina Express, but what I do know is that the moment I saw those pictures of the train winding its way through the Swiss Alps, I said, “I must take this train!” The sheer beauty of it all was simply unforgettable. Truly the stuff bucket-list dreams are made of. Months later I took that train ride.

And guess what? I have taken the Bernina Express three times! My usual route? Chur to Tirano (East to North). So far, I have always planned my trips for late fall, this journey is breath taking no matter the season!

One of the reasons why I have already taken this train ride 3 times is because I think the first time you marvel so much and try hard to take so many pictures you almost miss out on taking it in. Trips 2 and 3, I was able to relax more, take less pictures and be even more inspired by the beauty!

Best Time To Go

I have opted for this time of year because it pairs well with the festive Christmas markets which open around this time. Deals abound as European retailers join in with “Black Friday” sales. It is a good time to start your Christmas shopping. There are tons of opportunities to buy heavily discounted “luxuries” you are in Switzerland after all.

Your Shopping List

For me, the unique gifts that are found at the Christmas markets. Think Swiss cheese, your charcuterie board during the holidays (or any time) will be the envy of your guests. This makes the shopping experience even more special!

Hand knitted wool socks, hats, gloves, scarves, and artisan jewellery are some of the items available for purchase for your family and friends.

Experience The Alpine Beauty

You want to wish for a sunny day, with a little serving of each season, by that I mean at some points the sunshine gives you an idea of how beautiful it will be in the summertime. (you wiill need your sun glasses) If there is early morning fog you savour the late fall views. The dark / oranges of the tress remind you of the passing of another fall/autumn season and if there is light snow and snow flurries. If you dream of taking another trip in the heart of winter as the landscape is a marvellous winter wonderland this would be magical. If you don’t believe me check some of these posts from the BE team the link to their site is in the resources section.

A Swiss City Break Enroute To The Bernina Express

From late November, usually the third weekend in November, consider spending a night or two exploring the sights of Zurich, including the Christmas markets. The two I have visited are the Zurich Sechselautenplatz, this market is held in front of the Opera House and is one of the largest in the city. The market has an amazing night vibe, the food, mulled wine, local Swiss “hot dogs” you will need at least 2 hours here. If you are more into dining and socializing, the night market is for you.

Christmas Markets Treat

The second market is in the large hall of the main train station. I read somewhere it is one of the largest indoor Christmas markets in Europe – they def have the space for it, the Zurich main station is HUGE. You can also spend a couple of hours here shopping and sampling tasty traditional Swiss dishes before hopping on the train to Chur. If you are short on time in Zurich this is the best option before boarding the train to Chur. Either way the Zurich Christmas markets are not to be missed. For all the details take a read at my Zurich Christmas Markets post here Christmas In Zurich: 2 Days Of Markets, Lights & Charm – BeyondYourBoardingPass

The Bahnhofstrasse shopping street is pure luxury, high-end designers and jewellers line the street. There are also a few luxury chocolate shops so you can always top up on your energy if needed.

Whether it be a night or a day in Zurich, by the time you board the train for Chur you are truly chilled and ready for the crisp alpine air that awaits you.

How To Get To Chur

Chur said to be the oldest city in the country it is a lovely “little” alpine city.

If you are flying or training into Switzerland I recommend making Zurich your starting point. The train journey to Chur starts at the main Zurich HB station. This station is HUGE! Seriously I mean big! Trains run frequently over sixty per day and the train ride covers about 97 km in just over 90 minutes. 75 minutes if you take the faster train.

The Zurich to Chur route takes you slightly south hugging the shores of Lake Zurich as you leave the city centre behind.

Chur

Once you arrive at Chur’s recently upgraded the station, it is easy to navigate to street level. Taxis and trams are available if needed. A handful of local hotels are within walking distance.

I encourage you to spend at least a day (2 nights) here. With its winding streets specialist chocolate and perfumes shops, it is a fun day out. It is also car free in the centre. Spend a day exploring by foot. Depending on the time of year, there is an aerial cable car that takes you to the top of the hiking trails with panoramic views across the city. If you love nature and mountains you will love Chur. Spring and summer here? Absolute heaven!

Where To Stay

I have stayed at the ABC Hotel on all three of my trip. It is a 3-minute walk from the station. I am a bit of a creature of habit. The Swiss simplicity and functionality of the hotel are perfect. It is clean, and comfortable, with a hearty breakfast that never disappoints. You have options, but I can confidently recommend the ABC! (not a paid endorsement!)

As a small city the hotels in Chur are unlikely to be chain hotels, I would think very much local brands, certain the choices will work for you. What is unbeatable about the ABC is the location.

Bernina Express Route From Chur To Tirano

Panoramic Carriages And Views

Your journey on the BE will start early from Chur. The train departs at 8:28 sharp. In Switzerland if you arrive for departure time you are late! Swiss trains are not overly familiar with the word late or delayed so plan to be on the platform as soon as possible after 8 am.

If you are anything like me, I do not like the stress of rushing, so I always make sure I am at the platform no later than 8:10 am.

Over four and a half hours of magic awaits you as the train meanders through the alps, you will find yourself thinking this is exactly how I imagined Switzerland would be.

While you wait to board the BE, the excitement of your fellow travellers is palatable, you hear it, see it, almost feel it. You hear no less than four different languages. People come from near and far and having taken the trip before, I wish I could shout from the top of my lungs the treat that is in store. But I keep quiet. In Switzerland, we are well-mannered and reserved. Everyone will be smiling and friendly even if it is a cold Swiss morning!

The train pulls in and there is a polite clanger to board, find your seat, put away your luggage and get comfortable.

There are two classes of travel, first and second. The biggest difference is the size of the windows in the first-class section. The BE is built specifically so the sights can be enjoyed the windows are low and large, they call it panoramic.

I have always taken the BE in first class. At about 115 Euros, I think that’s excellent value. The best place to sit is in the middle of the train/and carriage.

Onboard

The reason for the middle location is as the train makes its way through the alps if you are in the middle, you get a beautiful view of what is coming up to capture the moments early whether, videos or still. And you can then turn around and try again facing the back of the train for more photos and different angles.

The first-class carriage isn’t terribly luxurious. It is however functional and I dare say aesthetically Swiss. The train is comfortable, the “tables” could be a little bigger. The seating configuration typically features two seats facing one on one side of the aisle.

If you are traveling alone, the folks directly in front of you will most likely be a couple or two friends. On the opposite side the configuration is one facing one. The large panoramic windows gives the carriages a lot of light and warmth, once the journey gets going passengers tend to get acquainted. By the time you arrive in Tirano, chances are, you have met one or two folks who may be future friends. Everyone who takes this trip has one thing in common, the appreciation of nature and Switzerland. After the first hour, you do not notice the seating config anymore!

My Experience On The Bernina Express

The Rhaetian Railway operates the BE, and the route is through the Albula and Bernina landscapes which are UNESCO heritage sites. Despite being labelled as an express, it is not a commuter express train. The train does not whiz through the Alps! The BE does make a handful of stops to pick up and drop off a few passengers. The stops may include a driver shift change between stations, as it does pass through certain towns which are gateways for ski towns such as Poschiavo.

The train slows down when going through the most iconic parts of the journey, but it still goes by very fast in my view simply because as you leave Chur within 20-30 minutes your senses are starting to open up and even be overwhelmed by the beauty on either side of the train. I will tell you in my view it really does not matter which part of the train you sit on; the magical views are everywhere.

Highlights Landmarks Along The Way

Landwasser Viaduct

The views are incredible, as you cross over deep gorges of the Rhine river, of the Bernina Express scenic railway. The tracks run parallel, the train circles through the alps, passing small towns and village on the way, if you are lucky enough to have early snow fall or a good amount of flurries the sights will take you breath away….ooh sun glasses are a must .a bit random but just remembered.

Onboard Service

The steward on the train takes order for drinks including coffee (no meals) a top the voices and even groans of excitement as the travellers taking in the incredible beauty. At times, even jostling for the next photo opportunity. The audio gives advance notice of what’s coming up, so you will have a little time to position yourself for that next photo even a selfie against the back drop of the alps. The audio guide on board is multi-lingual (English, Italian and German).

As you settle in the train meanders through the beautiful Alps, through alpine villages and towns, so amazing it is like being in a fairytale. A couple of “regular” trains they are all red going in the opposite direction I always wonder if the locals really know how lucky they are to live in the Alps.

Red Bernina Express Train Beside A Glacier

The Morteratsch Glacier

The iconic views of the glacier are simply magical as the trains crosses the landscape. Everyone is on their feet taking pictures. The snow the blues of the sky reflected on the “lake” are stunning.

A Glimpse Of The Palu Glacier

A little over halfway through the journey, the train makes a stop at Alp Grum, where you are treated to stunning views of the Palu Glacier and the surrounding peaks. Travellers step onto the platform for photos, and the small restaurant here serves hearty alpine dishes with a menu popular among hikers and the Bernina Express train travellers.

You have just under 15 minutes to breathe in the fresh mountain air. Grab a light snack from the convenience store/restaurant, or take a quick restroom break. But the main thing you will want to do here is soak in the breath taking beauty around you.

The Alps serve as the perfect canvas for your photos, and honestly, you will just want to stand there and marvel at the scenery in every direction.

Bursio Spiral Viaduct

After 15 minutes again like clockwork the train departs for the last 90 minutes or so of the journey. The photo opp here is of the Bursio Spiral Viaduct. A circular pass, which gives the train the ability to navigate the steep gradient in a short distance. It is a marvel of incredible engineering. The perfect backdrop for more photos.

Bernina Express On Stone Viaduct Bridge In The Alps

Val Poschiavo

Not long after, the next scenic marvel is the Val Poschiavo. This valley is lush with green landscape, which visibly changes as the train descents towards Italy. If you are super observant on the left side of the train you may notice the actual land crossing between the two countries.

As the train nears Tirano, the scenery changes and Italian replaces German as the dominant language.

Arriving In Tirano (Italy)

Your journey ends in the charming town of Tirano, Northern Italy—what comes next is up to you. Heading south?

Catch a Trenitalia or Trenord train to Milan in under three hours. You may linger at Lake Como for a couple of hours or a weekend as enroute.

Not ready to leave Switzerland? Return to Chur for more picturesque views. Please note that during the winter months, it gets dark earlier. At least an hour of the journey back may occur in fading daylight before arriving in Chur.

You can also continue and take the other line of the BE to St. Moritz. You will need to remain on the train if you are continuing.